In their first winter, even hardy evergreens can struggle because their roots have not spread far enough to replace moisture lost to cold, sun, and drying winds. In October, water deeply during dry spells, mulch the root zone, and add a breathable wind screen where exposure calls for one.

I think of it as giving a new plant time to learn its address. A cold snap is rarely the whole problem; frozen ground, dry soil, and wind can combine to leave evergreen foliage thirsty when its roots cannot drink.

There is also pleasure in the small rituals of overwintering a garden, from tidying leaves to collecting seeds. Before you head out, a burlap roll from Lowe’s can be useful for building a simple wind screen.

1. Arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis)

Arborvitae are popular for good reason, a row of them can make a backyard feel private without making it feel fenced in. But newly planted trees, especially taller, narrow cultivars, may be vulnerable to winter burn while their roots establish. The foliage can lose moisture to wind and winter sun even when the soil is frozen.

In October, give the root zone a slow, deep soak if rain has been scarce. Then spread a couple of inches of mulch beneath the canopy, keeping it several inches away from the trunk. If the site is open to prevailing winds, set stakes around the tree and attach burlap as a screen on the windward side. I prefer a screen to binding the whole plant as it takes the sting out of gusts while leaving room for air to move.

If the tree has several leaders or a loose shape, use soft ties to bring branches together gently before heavy, wet snow arrives.

Don’t cinch them tight; the aim is to limit splaying, not turn the arborvitae into a parcel. A burlap shrub wrap from Amazon can provide material for a screen. For more fall care, see H&G’s guide to protecting trees from winter weather.

2. Boxwood (Buxus)

Boxwood (Martha Stewart's favorite shrub) brings a satisfying sense of order to a border, even when the rest of the garden has decided to become a pile of leaves. Yet a newly planted boxwood hedge can suffer when dry winds pull moisture from its evergreen leaves before the roots are established. In colder zones, exposed plants may also face sun and temperature swings that scorch foliage.

Water thoroughly before the ground freezes, especially after a dry fall. A layer of mulch helps steady soil moisture and temperature, but leave a clear ring around the stems to discourage rot. In windy or particularly exposed spots, build a loose burlap screen on the windward side. If the plant is in a container, move it to a sheltered position and insulate the pot; roots in pots experience colder, faster temperature swings than roots in the ground.

For a new hedge, water each plant individually rather than assuming a quick pass with the hose has reached the whole root ball. A watering bag for trees and shrubs from Amazon can release water slowly around larger plants. H&G’s advice on when to cover plants for frost is a useful guide to timing covers around actual conditions.

3. Rhododendron

Rhododendrons keep their leaves through winter, and those broad leaves can lose moisture in drying wind and winter sun. A new plant is at extra risk because its roots have not yet explored much of the surrounding soil.

Choose a sheltered spot and a variety suited to your USDA hardiness zone; cold tolerance varies considerably across this large group.

In October, check that the soil is moist but drains freely. Rhododendrons dislike being waterlogged, so a generous watering is helpful only if excess water can escape. Mulch with pine bark or another suitable organic material to protect the shallow root zone, leaving the crown clear. If winter winds hit the site directly, a screen made with stakes and breathable burlap can reduce exposure without pressing fabric against the foliage.

I would also avoid a late-season feed that encourages a flush of tender growth just before the cold. Give the plant a calm autumn, not a growth spurt. H&G’s guide to protecting plants from frost covers the basics of choosing and using breathable protection.

4. Japanese Holly (Ilex crenata)

Japanese holly is often clipped into neat shapes and used as a boxwood alternative. Its small leaves can make it seem unbothered by everything, but new plants still need time to establish, and exposed sites can bring a combination of drying wind and cold soil. Hardiness depends on cultivar and local conditions, so check the plant label before choosing a spot.

Keep the root ball watered through dry fall weather, then mulch around the plant once the soil is cool. If you have planted a row, pay particular attention to the end plants as they may be more exposed to wind than their neighbors. Use stakes and breathable fabric to make a partial windbreak where needed, and check ties after storms so they do not rub or tighten around stems.

For a small plant or a brief freeze, a frost cover may help, but take it off during mild spells rather than leaving the shrub sealed in. A plant frost cover from Amazon is a convenient choice for short-term protection. H&G’s guide to winter protection for plants in containers has useful advice if your holly is growing in a pot.

5. Yew (Taxus)

Yew is famously adaptable once settled, whether it is allowed to grow into a dark, elegant screen or clipped into a more formal shape. “Once settled” is the important part. A recently planted yew has a smaller root system than an established one, so drought, wind, and frozen soil can leave it vulnerable to winter burn.

Water deeply when fall rainfall is insufficient, then mulch the root zone to help soil retain moisture. In an exposed position, place a wind screen on the side that receives the worst weather.

Young trees with a single trunk may also benefit from a stake if wind could rock the root ball; use a flexible tie and check it periodically. A stake should steady the tree, not hold it rigidly in place.

One of the kindest things you can do is keep an eye on the soil rather than watering to a calendar. Damp soil needs no extra drink, while a dry spell before the ground freezes is the moment to act. Tree stakes and soft ties from Lowe’s can help stabilize a young specimen. For broader seasonal guidance, H&G’s steps for overwintering a garden offer a useful checklist.

What to Shop

Evergreens do not stop losing moisture just because the garden looks dormant. Water newly planted specimens during dry spells while the ground is workable, mulch around the root zone without piling material against stems, and use breathable screens for plants exposed to wind or winter sun.

In October, those small preparations can make the difference between a settled-in shrub and one that starts spring with brown tips and a complaint.

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